Lash Mapping 101: How to Create Custom Styles for Every Eye Shape

Every lash artist has been there — staring at a new client, lashes ready, tweezers in hand, thinking:

“Okay… what style is going to make her eyes pop?” 😅

That’s where lash mapping becomes your best friend.

Lash mapping isn’t just drawing lines on a pad — it’s art meets anatomy. It’s how you create customized sets that flatter every eye shape, highlight facial symmetry, and make your work look effortlessly professional.

So grab your tape, tweezers, and a lash pen — let’s dive into TDANCE’s fun and foolproof guide to lash mapping! 🎯

💡 What Is Lash Mapping (And Why It Matters)

Lash mapping is the process of planning out your lash lengths, curls, and styles before you start grafting.
Think of it as your blueprint — your “lash GPS.”

Without a proper map, even a beautiful fan can look misplaced. With mapping, though? You control the flow, direction, and drama of every lash.

💬 Why mapping matters:

• Helps you achieve balance between both eyes.

• Keeps your set consistent and symmetrical.

• Allows you to adjust for unique features (like hooded eyes or downward lashes).

• Speeds up your work once you master it!

👁️ Step 1: Identify Your Client’s Eye Shape

Before you start, study your client’s eyes carefully. The goal is to enhance, not overpower.

Here are the main eye shapes — and how to flatter each one:

🔹 Almond Eyes

Lucky you! Almond eyes can rock almost any style.
Try Natural or Cat Eye maps with soft transitions (8–12mm) for effortless glam.

💡 Pro Tip: Add TDANCE’s D or M curls at the outer corners for a subtle lift.

🔹 Round Eyes

Round eyes are bright and expressive — but can appear even rounder with the wrong map.
Avoid too much length in the center; it can create a “surprised” look.

💫 Best map: Cat Eye or Dolly Mix
Start shorter (7–9mm) in the inner corners and gradually build to 12–13mm toward the outer edge.

💡 Pro Tip: Mix C and D curls for natural elongation. TDANCE YY or W lashes give the perfect soft fluff without heaviness.

🔹 Hooded Eyes

Hooded eyes have a heavier lid, so the trick is to open the eye by adding lift and texture.

💫 Best map: Open Eye or Squirrel Style
Use shorter lashes (7–9mm) on the inner corners, gradually increasing to 11–12mm toward the center, then taper slightly.

💡 Pro Tip: M or L curls work wonders — try TDANCE Shimmy-Free M Curl Fans for long-lasting structure that won’t droop!

🔹 Monolid Eyes

For monolids, it’s all about creating dimension. Flat curls tend to disappear behind the lash line, so choose curls that really open the eye.

💫 Best map: Kim K or Layered Spiky Style
Alternate lash lengths (8–11–9–12–10) to add texture and volume.

💡 Pro Tip: TDANCE Spike Styler Fans make spiked sets faster, neater, and more stable — no twisting spikes or collapsed bases.

🔹 Downturned Eyes

When the outer corners slope down, you want to visually lift them up.

💫 Best map: Squirrel or Fox Eye
Use shorter lengths (7–9mm) on the inner corner, peak at 10–11mm just before the outer edge, and don’t extend too far out.

💡 Pro Tip: Avoid placing the longest lash at the very end — it’ll drag the eyes down. Use TDANCE 0.07 M Curl for that soft lifted effect.

🔹 Close-Set Eyes

Here, the goal is to create the illusion of wider spacing.

💫 Best map: Cat Eye
Keep inner corners short (6–8mm) and stretch outer corners to 12–13mm.

💡 Pro Tip: Place your “transition point” (where length starts to grow) slightly earlier — around the middle of the eye.

🔹 Wide-Set Eyes

Opposite strategy! You want to bring focus inward.

💫 Best map: Doll or Natural Eye
Build length toward the center (10–12mm), and taper quickly at both ends.

💡 Pro Tip: Use C curls for a natural blend and avoid extreme outer flares.

🎨 Step 2: Plan Your Lengths and Curls

Now that you’ve identified your client’s eye shape, it’s time to map your set.
Using a gel pad, draw vertical lines marking each section (inner, mid, outer, etc.).

💡 Pro Tip:
A standard lash map might look like this (for almond eyes):
Inner corner: 7–8mm
Mid-section: 9–11mm
Outer edge: 12–13mm
Transition taper: back to 10mm

🪶 Use different curls to enhance the style — for example:

• C Curl → natural and soft

• D Curl → dramatic lift

• M/L Curl → upward lift for hooded or monolid eyes

TDANCE offers all these curls in YY, W, and Shimmy-Free styles, so you can mix textures for artistic depth!

🧭 Step 3: Customize — Don’t Copy

Every client is unique, so never use a one-size-fits-all map.
Adjust lengths based on:

• Lash health (don’t overload weak lashes!)

• Face shape

• Desired drama level

• Event (everyday vs. special occasion)

💡 Pro Tip:
Keep the overall shape balanced — no matter how bold you go, your set should flow naturally from inner to outer corner.

And remember: symmetry matters!
Always check both eyes from multiple angles before finishing.

🪄 Step 4: Finishing Touches for a Flawless Map

After mapping and applying, the magic is in the details:

• Brush through to check direction.

• Fill small gaps with shorter fans.

• Adjust spikes or layers to keep the top line even.

💡 Pro Tip:
Seal the finished set with TDANCE Retention Sealer to lock in that perfect curl and bond for up to 8 weeks of retention.

🌈 Bonus: Popular Lash Map Styles to Try

Here are some trending maps TDANCE artists are loving right now:
✨ Kim K Spiked Set: Use alternating lengths with Shimmy-Free Fans for texture.
✨ M Curl Cat Eye: A lifted, elegant look for everyday wear.
✨ Wispy Hybrid: Combine Classic + YY Lashes for natural dimension.
✨ Brown Lash Doll Set: Soft glam with warm tones for lighter eye colors.

💡 Mix and match — lash mapping is art, not math!

💬 Final Thought: Lash Mapping Is Your Artistic Signature

When you master lash mapping, you’re not just following rules — you’re designing confidence.
Each client leaves your chair with a look made just for them.

And that’s what makes your work unforgettable. 💖

At TDANCE, we make sure you have the tools to map like a master — from perfectly balanced Shimmy-Free to stable adhesives and curl-true lashes that make your mapping come alive.

👉 Ready to elevate your lash artistry?
Explore the TDANCE Lash Mapping Essentials Collection and start designing lash looks that turn heads, one eye at a time. 👁✨